19th January 2008 - Drake Passage, Cape Horn and the Beagle Channel.
These days on the Marco Polo, I am painting only from rocky islands, so there is no problem with the water freezing. When the wind picks up, sometimes my fingers get stiff, but I find that fingerless gloves and sometimes a chemical hand warmer inside the glove keeps my fingers sufficiently nimble.
Time 23:19, 54 degrees 50.61' South, 68 degrees 07.07 West, part cloudy, dry, Air Temperature 14 oC, Water Temperature 10.2 oC, Wind West force 4.
Time 06:53, 57 degrees 32.71' South, 65 degrees 29.36' West, overcast, dry, Air Temperature 7 oC, Water Temperature 3.6 oC, Wind West force 6
Had a great start to the morning with a Fin Whale next to the ship within five minutes of starting my watch just before 7am. We had a great morning watching albatrosses, some coming within 30 feet/9 metres of the side of the ship.
Wandering Albatross off the back deck this morning.
On our approach to Cape Horn we saw large numbers of albatrosses and Sooty Shearwaters. When we entered the Beagle Channel we saw a minimum of 85 Peale's Dolphins in one large school and one small one. They were travelling at speed and some breached on occasion. The amount of bird life in the Beagle Channel is fantastic with lots of Imperial Shags and Magellanic Penguins.
Everyone is out on deck to watch the ship pass "The Horn". Note how calm it is.
Continuing with guest bloggers from the Expedition Team today Lucia deLeiris the Expedition Artist will tell you about her role in the team.
Lucia deLeiris is an artist with a B.S. in zoology from the University of Maryland. She has received three grants from the National Science Foundation Artists and Writers Program to work alongside scientists at McMurdo and Palmer Stations, and at field camps, for a total of ten months. She was awarded the Antarctic Service Medal by the National Science Foundation in 2005. Lucia has illustrated four books on Antarctic science for both adults and young readers, including Natural History of the Antarctic Peninsula, (Moss, Columbia University Press, 1988), Antarctic Journal (Hooper, National Geographic Publ. 2000). She has also illustrated other natural history books, and articles in magazines including Smithsonian Magazine, National Geographic Traveler, Cruising World Magazine. Lucia's solo exhibitions of Antarctic paintings have been showcased at Smithsonian Museum of Natural History, Washington, DC. Harvard Museum of Natural History, Cambridge MA, and the Newport Art Museum, (RI) and other venues. This is Lucia’s sixth season as lecturer/artist aboard the Antarctic cruises of the MARCO POLO.
Lucia with some of her painting at her exhibition held on the ship at the end of each cruise.
In the Falkland Islands, I was sketching both the Rockhopper Penguins and the Black-browed Albatross nesting side by side in one colony among the tussock grass. While I was painting, with the easel perched over the tussock, a huge albatross jumped up from behind me onto the grass inches in front of my easel! What a treat it was to see such a bird so close up! He wasn’t afraid at all, and watched me draw for several minutes before heading down among the nests.
In the Falkland Islands, I was sketching both the Rockhopper Penguins and the Black-browed Albatross nesting side by side in one colony among the tussock grass. While I was painting, with the easel perched over the tussock, a huge albatross jumped up from behind me onto the grass inches in front of my easel! What a treat it was to see such a bird so close up! He wasn’t afraid at all, and watched me draw for several minutes before heading down among the nests.
Lucia painting a curious Black-browed Albatross at Westpoint in the Falkland Islands.
Further south, painting along the Antarctic Peninsula can be a challenge when the weather is windy and cold. However, since the temperature is usually above the freezing point, I don’t have to worry about the watercolors freezing. In past years, when I was living at Palmer station, a U.S. science station near Port Lockroy, I would sometimes walk up the glacier behind the station to get a good view of the islands around Palmer. There, because of the great mass of ice right under me, the air was colder, and I had to take precautions to prevent the water from freezing. After the experience of having a perfectly even blue wash on the paper turn into a starry pattern before my eyes, I learned that a few drops of alcohol in the water would lower the freezing point enough to prevent that. Another trick was to bring hot water in a thermos bottle. Poured into a cup, I would have some time before it cooled off.
Some of Lucia's work done during the landings on Antarctica this season.
These days on the Marco Polo, I am painting only from rocky islands, so there is no problem with the water freezing. When the wind picks up, sometimes my fingers get stiff, but I find that fingerless gloves and sometimes a chemical hand warmer inside the glove keeps my fingers sufficiently nimble.
A detail of another painting done during one of our landings at Half Moon Island.
The Antarctic landscape is inspiring with its dramatic glaciers, sculpted icebergs and mountainous backdrops. Each time I visit here, I see it anew. Weather conditions change, ice and snow conditions vary, offering an ever changing visual paradise. I find the turquoise that emanates from the glaciers and icebergs here a particular challenge to depict as it shines with such brilliance, almost as if lit from deep within the ice. When the sun is out, the intense blue of the glacial ice contrast with the blinding white of the glacial surfaces, and the ocean takes on a deep blue aspect, punctuated by the brilliant icebergs. Overcast and cloudy skies soften the shadows, giving a gentler appearance I try to capture with mid tones.
It is a treat to paint Antarctic wildlife, especially the penguins, who pose nicely when guarding their nests. There are so many birds in a nesting colony, that when one gets out of position, there is usually another in that same position that I can refer to. Although this is my sixth season on the Marco Polo, I never tire of painting this landscape, finding new inspiration each time.
The Antarctic landscape is inspiring with its dramatic glaciers, sculpted icebergs and mountainous backdrops. Each time I visit here, I see it anew. Weather conditions change, ice and snow conditions vary, offering an ever changing visual paradise. I find the turquoise that emanates from the glaciers and icebergs here a particular challenge to depict as it shines with such brilliance, almost as if lit from deep within the ice. When the sun is out, the intense blue of the glacial ice contrast with the blinding white of the glacial surfaces, and the ocean takes on a deep blue aspect, punctuated by the brilliant icebergs. Overcast and cloudy skies soften the shadows, giving a gentler appearance I try to capture with mid tones.
It is a treat to paint Antarctic wildlife, especially the penguins, who pose nicely when guarding their nests. There are so many birds in a nesting colony, that when one gets out of position, there is usually another in that same position that I can refer to. Although this is my sixth season on the Marco Polo, I never tire of painting this landscape, finding new inspiration each time.
Thanks Lucia!
The Beagle Channel this evening.
Wildlife seen on the Drake Passage heading north, Cape Horn and the Beagle Channel.
Mammals
Fin Whale 1
Peale’s Dolphin 85+ (Beagle Channel)
Birds
Wandering Albatross 12+
Royal Albatross 4
Northern Giant Petrel 1
Southern Giant Petrel 10+
Grey-headed Albatross 7
Black-browed Albatross 500+
Cape Petrel 3
Blue Petrel 100+
Sooty Shearwater 1,000+
White-chinned Petrel 8
Wilson’s Storm Petrel 20+
Diving Petrel (Unidentified) 1
Magellanic Penguin 150+
Imperial Shag 400+
Black-faced Ibis 2
Chilean Skua 20+
Brown Skua 2
Kelp Gull 70+
South American Tern 100+
Note: A + sign after the counts indicates that we saw at least that number but more may have been present.
Fin Whale 1
Peale’s Dolphin 85+ (Beagle Channel)
Birds
Wandering Albatross 12+
Royal Albatross 4
Northern Giant Petrel 1
Southern Giant Petrel 10+
Grey-headed Albatross 7
Black-browed Albatross 500+
Cape Petrel 3
Blue Petrel 100+
Sooty Shearwater 1,000+
White-chinned Petrel 8
Wilson’s Storm Petrel 20+
Diving Petrel (Unidentified) 1
Magellanic Penguin 150+
Imperial Shag 400+
Black-faced Ibis 2
Chilean Skua 20+
Brown Skua 2
Kelp Gull 70+
South American Tern 100+
Note: A + sign after the counts indicates that we saw at least that number but more may have been present.
Time 23:19, 54 degrees 50.61' South, 68 degrees 07.07 West, part cloudy, dry, Air Temperature 14 oC, Water Temperature 10.2 oC, Wind West force 4.
2 comments:
What a delight to learn about your fellow traveler, Lucia de Leiris. I have seen her work in books before -- especially of penguins --and know also of her work with Jane Goodall in which she painted chimpanzees while in Africa. She is certainly a 'world travelling artist' and must provide an abiding expertise to your endeavors. Best regards to you all in the Antarctic.
hi jim,
well done on your blog, very interesting. tracking you all the way.
dave coughlan
coolamber
Post a Comment