Friday, January 18, 2008

17th January 2008 - Paradise Harbour and cruising north on the Gerlache Strait and Croker Passage.

Time 07:08, 64 degrees 48.02' South, 63 degrees 06.06' West, clear blue skies and later during the day like a warm Irish spring day out of the light cold breeze, Air Temperature 4 oC, Water Temperature 1.2 oC, Wind Northwest force 1-4, Sunrise 04:33, Sunset 00:11 nest day.

Gentoo Penguins nesting under the Chilean flag at Paradise Harbour research base.
It was a beautiful day today at Paradise Harbour and was warm enough that I only needed to wear my fleece over my usual clothes (including long johns - essential!). A cold breeze did pick up later in the morning and for most of the cruise north on the Gerlache Strait it was almost flat calm. Two of the three leucistic Gentoo Penguins were present at the Paradise Harbour rookery, one paired with a regular Gentoo.
One of the leucistic Gentoo Penguins at Paradise Harbour with the Marco Polo in the background.
I may have mentioned it before but leucism is a bit like albinism but instead of a total lack of colour pigment the birds have a greatly reduced level of pigment. I have not seen this type of penguin at any of the other rookeries we visit. For the first time I noticed the adult penguins panting like dogs. They have a complete coat of short feathers as dense as a deep pile carpet so they use panting to lose heat.
Gentoo Penguins on a "hot" day in Antarctica try to loose heat by panting like a dog.
Unlike garden birds at home the adult penguin minding the chicks or eggs cannot leave the nest unattended or the eggs or chicks might be taken by a skua or they might die of the cold. So a dip in the cool sea nearby is out of the question for the adult. Once again the cruise north towards Half Moon Island did not fail to produce great views of a good number of Humpback Whales for the passengers.
The Gerlache Strait looking like a pond this evening.
It is hard to imagine what it must have been like before whaling started in these waters. It is estimated that one million whales were slaughtered by Antarctic whalers before they were forced to stop because they had wiped out almost all of them.

Giant iceberg passing my cabin window this evening.
I saw this iceberg out my cabin window after 10pm this even as I was coming down to the office to write today's blog. It was as long and definitely taller than our ship and even looked a little bit like a ship. I dashed out on deck and watched it slowly pass by and the song going through my head at the time - Emotional Landscapes by Bjork. The song title just about sums up my impressions of the Antarctic peninsula. Bye for now.
PS Hariolf - sorry about the Emperor but great to hear you are still enjoying the birdwatching!
PPS John M - thanks for the comment and glad to hear you will be working again with Cobh's monsters of metal Forbidden Son!

Wildlife seen at Paradise Harbour, the Gerlache Strait and Croker Passage

Mammals
Humpback Whale 26
Minke Whale 3
Leopard Seal 1


Birds
Giant Petrel 4
Black-browed Albatross 1
Southern Fulmar 7+
Wilson’s Storm Petrel 10+
Gentoo Penguin 800+ (including 2 leucistic birds)
Chinstrap Penguin 6+ (one at Paradise Harbour)
Snowy Sheathbill 15+
Antarctic Shag 5+
Brown Skua 5+
South Polar Skua 8+
Kelp Gull 15+
Antarctic Tern 9

Note: A + sign after the counts indicates that we saw at least that number but more may have been present.

Time 22:10, 63 degrees 37.68' South, 61 degrees 11.84' West, Air Temperature 5 oC, Water Temperature 3.2 0C, Wind South west force 4, partly cloudy and dry.